Kusatsu Onsen 草津
Kusatsu is one of Japan’s most famous onsen towns. Located less than four hours by train from Tokyo, it’s a popular getaway for Tokyo residents. Hayashi Razan recognized Kusatsu as one of Japan’s three great hot springs as early as the 17th century.
On my last trip to Japan, I was fortunate enough to visit this charming town and stay in one of its best ryokan. Kusatsu sits nestled in the mountains of Japan, offering breathtaking views of nature, rice fields, small villages, picturesque valleys, and mountains during the train journey from Tokyo. A word of caution: Make sure to coordinate your train schedule with the bus timetable, as buses don’t run frequently!
Kusatsu Onsen
A small surprise awaits you right at the bus stop. Next to a beautifully designed garden, there’s a hot foot bath. I highly recommend taking advantage of it, especially while waiting for the bus back during the cooler seasons—it’s a perfect way to warm up! The garden’s water stream is directly fed from this foot bath.
Yubatake and Kusatsu Hot Spring Source
Kusatsu Onsen is fed by one of Japan’s hottest springs, with water emerging right in the town’s central square. The entire area is enveloped in picturesque clouds of steam. With temperatures reaching up to 94°C, this spring is truly remarkable. The Yubatake cools the water to a comfortable bathing temperature of around 47°C by channeling it through a beautifully crafted structure with long wooden channels, which help preserve its natural minerals. Kusatsu Onsen’s acidic waters actively heal various ailments and benefit the skin with their well-known properties.
Travel Tip
The Yubatake is perfect for an evening visit, as the water is beautifully illuminated. The entire area is surrounded by benches, where you can meet new people—some even enjoying hot foot baths. Nearby stalls offer delicious snacks like yakitori and other local treats, making it an ideal spot to relax and soak in the atmosphere.
The water in Kusatsu has a very distinct smell—somewhat reminiscent of rotten eggs. This is due to the high sulfur content, which can also be seen in the yellow deposits around the springs. These and other minerals give the water its shimmering light blue color. Fortunately, you quickly get used to the smell and soon hardly notice it at all.
Onsen Demonstration
The “Yumomi” ritual in Kusatsu fascinates visitors as participants cool the hot onsen water to the desired temperature of around 47°C using large wooden paddles called “Yumomi-Bō” (湯もみ棒).
Ryokan in Kusatsu
During our stay, our small group had the privilege of spending the night in a traditional ryokan. Kusatsu’s bus center sits on a hill, and a steep road leads directly down into the main part of the town. Navigating this descent with heavy luggage was quite an adventure. If only we had checked our booking more carefully—there was actually a shuttle bus that could have picked us up. But, well… it was an experience nonetheless! The ryokan itself is located not far from the central hot spring. The staff warmly welcomed us in front of the medieval-style half-timbered building, immediately making us feel the hospitality of the place.
At the Ryokan
The entrance was traditionally Japanese, featuring a carpeted lobby with armchairs, an indoor garden, and a tea room next to the reception.
After you check in, the staff escorts you to your room and brings your luggage separately. A proper ryokan always welcomes you with a small snack and green tea.
You’re also provided with a traditional yukata, which you can wear while strolling through the town. We stayed in a Japanese-style room, with tatami mats and futon beds—something I grew to really appreciate during this trip. If you’re interested, you can book a traditional meal at the ryokan. They serve it in a tatami room on a low table and offer numerous small dishes made from fresh, seasonal ingredients, just as was customary in Japan. Vegetarian options are also available upon request.
Onsen Bath
This ryokan of kusatsu features its onsen baths as a highlight, offering three options: one for women, one for men, and a private bath available for rent. The communal bath offers both an indoor stone bath and an outdoor wooden bath. The outdoor bath felt a bit hotter to me. This could have been due to the contrast with the cool mountain air. The communal baths stay open 24 hours a day. You can enjoy a hot soak anytime, even in the middle of the night. Natural materials beautifully design all the baths, creating an atmosphere of serene relaxation.
The private onsen bath is considerably smaller. However, if you’re traveling in a group, I highly recommend paying the additional fee of around €20 per hour. It allows you to enjoy mixed-gender bathing together. Plus, you won’t disturb other guests if you want to chat.
If you want to know more about the onsen, you may also want to read our onsen post:
Tempel of Kusatsu
The temple in Kusatsu is located not far from the bus stop on the hill. Alternatively, you can reach it from the main square via an impressive stone staircase. The complex serves both as a Buddhist temple and a Shinto shrine. Over the centuries, it has played a significant role in the spiritual and health development of the region and remains an important destination for pilgrims and visitors seeking inner peace and physical well-being.
Tempel
Anrakuji Temple is a Buddhist temple founded in the 13th century. It belongs to the Jodo school, one of the major Buddhist schools in Japan. The temple honors Amida Buddha, the Buddha of Infinite Light, and provides a place for worship and meditation. It has a close connection to Kusatsu’s hot spring. In Buddhist tradition, the onsen water is considered healing and purifying. Devotees come here not only to seek spiritual purification but also physical healing through the power of the onsen water. A special highlight of the temple is the impressive statue of Amida Buddha, revered by worshippers.
Shrine
Ohtaki Shrine, located near Anrakuji Temple, actively honors Ohtaki-no-Mikoto, the deity of water and healing. Built in the 17th century, it has served as a pilgrimage site for visitors to the hot springs ever since. Ohtaki Shrine plays a vital role in Kusatsu’s onsen culture, as it actively honors Ohtaki-no-Mikoto, the guardian of the healing waters. The community regards the spring as a gift from the deity. Each year, the shrine hosts festivals to express gratitude to the gods for their protection, promote the well-being of the community, and celebrate the ongoing renewal of the onsen’s healing powers.
Visit or not?
VISIT! Kusatsu is a must-visit for all bath and relaxation enthusiasts. It offers a striking contrast to the bustling metropolis of Tokyo, allowing travelers on a city-focused trip or not that much time to experience the rural charm of Japan.
If you want to see more of Kusatsu, consider to watch this great video tour of the town.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=39PJgPaBhp8
Or read our great article about onsen in general!